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Surf Forecast: California

Evan — Fri, 18 Jul 2008 01:31:26 +0000

Surf forecasting seems to be art and science. The problem is that I haven’t found a site that I think does it well. Surfline is decent, but the models are often off and seem to forecast generally bigger waves than often arrive. Storms and waves have such huge variables that you need a more detailed forecast that’s easy to understand. Adam Wright is a professional surf forecaster since 1999 (probably the time when the term “professional surf forecaster” was first used). He’s worked for Surfline and Wavewatch. He has three forecast sites with daily updates and easy to understand explanations of swell and wind forecasts. He seems to be spot on all the time. Check out the sites.

Southern California Forecast.

Northern and Central California Forecast.

Baja Forecast.

He’s also got good links to how to forecasting and surf break maps that map out the break and talk about best swell angles, etc. Here’s one for Rincon.

Fishing Boat Runs Aground on Padang Reef – Surfbreak in Bali

Evan — Wed, 16 Jul 2008 00:25:01 +0000

The notorious Tawainese longliner fishing boat, Ho Tsai Fa No. 18, ran aground on the reef at Padang Padang in Bali, Indonesia at 7PM on Friday night – just in time for opening day of the highly anticipated Rip Curl Padang Cup event the following morning.

“The whole surf community is pretty concerned about the boat as it’s leaking fuel,” said Rip Curl’s Andy Higgins. “With a swell arriving on Friday afternoon, it could break open. So apart from the fact that this could make running our events—the Rip Curl Padang Cup & Rip Curl Pro Search—there impossible, it poses a big threat environmentally as well. Either way, it’s on the top of our ‘to do’ list until we find an appropriate solution.”

Taiwanese authorities had been seeking assistance from the Indonesian government to find this boat well known for illegal fishing practices that’s been missing since May 13, 2008. Taiwanese skipper Tsai Wen-chen and approximately 16 Indonesian crewmen were on board when it went missing.

From Solspot.com

Check the video of surfers riding Padang by the boat.

Update from CoastalWatch:

The boat has settled on a much more precarious looking angle today, and it’s starting to leak a fair bit of diesel. In fact the whole area around it reeks of diesel. The local ladies on the beach are not too stoked… lucky the wind is offshore, but a bit of swell could bring it in. I don’t think it’s gonna take too much to tip it over… there’s hardly any swell now but the biggest sets are rocking it in a very sketchy looking way. If it tips it’s gonna be a massive environmental stuff up.

Looting has kicked into overdrive and so far it doesn’t really seem like any effort is going to be made to get this thing off the reef. It’s slowly being dismantled on site and anything of value is being taken. There’s people all over it and around it. The load of fish has been cleaned out, now crew are taking petty containers, tanks, radio gear etc. A lifeguard came past proudly holding the steering wheel and I was like no way, this thing isn’t going anywhere, ever.

You can’t help assuming that it’s starting to look like it could become a permanent feature of Padang Padang.

Even if they did want to get it off, there’s no real big tides until Friday, when some swell is supposed to kick in as well. If no-one gets it’s off the reef by then it’s gonna get smashed back to Taiwan. Let’s hope it doesn’t get smashed square into the lineup.

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Evan — Thu, 12 Jun 2008 18:14:47 +0000

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Fuel TV’s Surfer Fix

Evan — Wed, 11 Jun 2008 22:04:21 +0000

If you’re a surf media junkie like myself and your monthly surf video purchase and four surf magazine subscriptions just don’t seem to be enough, Fuel TV has some great surf content. A friend suggested to me last year, and I was blown away by the quality and how much surf related content they have. They’ve got two weekly shows dedicated to surf content: Fins and On Surfari. Fins does a great job with profiles on surfers, photographers, film makers, etc. On Surfari is a travel show by a San Diego-based surf couple, Shannon and Shane McIntyre, who travel the world in search of surf and cultural experiences. Here’s an interview they did with TransWorldSurf Magazine. [Video Clips from Fins and On Surfari after the jump]

Here’s a recent Fins episode on the Malloy brothers, Greg Huglin, a surf photographer and film maker, and an Indo session with surf-artist, Jalian.

Here’s another clip from an episode of On Surfari where Shane and Shannon go to explore the island of Mauritius.

Surf Park – The Wave of (Not Too Distant) Future…

Evan — Mon, 09 Jun 2008 22:30:10 +0000

I must have read my first article of the promised Ron Jon Surf Park probably in 2003 in Surfer Magazine. They touted the park as right around the corner and the first of many to come. First Orlando, then every other city in the country. We’d be surfing at night, getting a guaranteed 12 waves an hour, and picking between long rolling point waves and getting shacked in a pool. Ron Jon where have been?!

The Surfpark in Orlando touted new technology that would produce a more powerful, longer, and consistent wave that could be altered to different shapes including the elusive tube. There wasn’t a dissenting voice among the surfing public. But since then, we haven’t heard anything. I did some digging on the Surf Park website and found a recent change of plans and another vague time-line.

In February they announced redesigns that include a two phase development. First would come a smaller wave pool with rides of 30-40 yards and then a second larger wave pool with larger waves and longer rides (6-8 foot waves and 60-80 yard long rides). They don’t give specific dates.

In the meantime, a guy named Steve Jones is promising a wave park in London by 2011. So Ron Jon, give us some dates! We’re dreaming of chlorine barrels.

Surf + Art

Evan — Tue, 29 Apr 2008 01:49:36 +0000

Surf and art never seem to far apart. The beauty of surfing translates well to the artistic experience. Here’s a link to Ed Fladung’s blog Quality Peoples with links to art and surf and Ed’s random musing. “On a perpetual Mexican surfari,” something we’re all wishing for.

Global Warming and Surfing: Are the Waves Getting Bigger

Evan — Wed, 23 Apr 2008 20:02:35 +0000

The jury may still be out for some people about whether global warming is actually occurring, but for many of us it’s pretty obvious. I’m already investing in property in Oregon as the new Costa Rica (give it 200 years). Global warming’s effects on surf and waves isn’t as obvious. Rising sea levels are likely to turn epic surf spots like Pipeline into warm water mush burgers, but there’s some good news for surfers. There’s evidence that global warming is creating more larger storms, which means bigger waves. Seismologists have been able to document the phenomena (link). So next time you ditch your board on a set wave and swim, blame it on global warming not fear.

Surf Photography Portfolio – Chris Burkard

Evan — Mon, 31 Mar 2008 20:00:08 +0000

Surfline posted their portfolio series featuring Chris Burkard, a young and upcoming surf photographer from Pismo Beach California. Surf photography has progressed a lot in the past 30 years, meet one of the photographers pushing the limits and art of surf photography now. While much of his shots and portfolio focus on California, it’s understandable because he’s only 21 and has only been shooting for 3 years! Hard to believe with his images.

See Other Amazing Posts on SurfThereNow:

Clark Little’s Stunning Images of Waves

Diver Fights and Kills 12 ft. Tiger Shark (Photos)

Your Risk of Dying of a Shark Attack

Incredible HD Footage of Surfer in the Barrel

Summer comes to SoCal!

Evan — Wed, 12 Mar 2008 07:24:08 +0000

75 degree and sunny days. Lights winds all day, and mixed Southwest and Northwest swell. Breakbreaks all over SoCal are firing! Feels like summer! The surf has been peaky and good all week at Manhattan Beach (it really does take a combo swell for the place to get good and peaky), and looks like it going to stay that way for at least a couple of days. Winter turns right into summer.