Short film from 1939 showing surfing in Los Angeles (Palos Verdes).
The history of surfing in California dates back to 1885. At that time, three Hawaiian princes were attending school in San Mateo. They traveled to Santa Cruz and rode waves at the mouth of the San Lorenzo river using surfboards made out of local redwood.
Nothing much happened after that until 1907 when George Freeth came to California from Hawaii. After demonstrating surfing in Redondo Beach he stayed in California and continued to surf until his death in 1919.
Famous Hawaiian surfer Duke Kahanamoku surfed Ocean Beach, San Diego in 1916 and subsequently inspired Olympic swimming teammate Tom Blake. In the 1920′s both Blake and Kahanamoku surfed and gave demonstrations throughout California.
The 1930′s saw the rise of surf clubs in major surfing areas of California. During this time Tom Blake patented the Hollow Surfboard and it went into production. World War II halted most surfing innovation for a few years.
World War II created advancements in the plastics industry and Bob Simmons was able to put this to use by creating the first balsa and fiberglass covered surfboard in the late 1940′s. By the 1950′s Dale Velzy opened California’s first surfboard shop in Manhattan Beach. Soon after, surfing exploded in popularity.
Description from www.surfingcal.com/history-of-surfing.html
The trials at Teahupoo are on, new swell has arrived and the boys are on it. As always, big barrels come with big wipe-outs. Check out these massive wipe-outs including Laurie Towner and Anthony Walsh.
This HD slow-motion video of Jaws was shot by “iamkalaniprince” (Vimeo user) on December 7, 2009. This clip shows a seemingly endless set at the monster break. Jaws broke countless times this winter and Sebastian Steudtner, won the Billabong XXL was a massive left at Jaws (video link). This really shows how big tow-in big wave surfing has become. Every wave of the set has a rider on in, with I’m sure a few left after the set waiting for more.
Teahupoo goes ballistic on the first big swell of the season, looks like the South Pacific might be doing the same thing that the North Pacific did this winter and it’s getting start early. All the regulars were on it. Check out the last wave of the video, one of the biggest ever ridden at Teahupoo and a guaranteed Billabong Ride of the Year XXL contender. All the regulars were on it including Raimana Van Bastolaer, Poto, Shane Dorian, Ian Walsh, Carlos Burle, Manoa Drollet.
Jaws (Maui) was macking on Monday with dozens of teams of tow-ins vying for position. One particularly unlucky surfer hit a few chops on the face that Jaws is notorious for and got worked in a devastating manner. Here’s the video:
Clay Marzo, upcoming surfer, does the things we only dream of on a wave. If he ever decides to go pro instead of the route of a free surfer, the WCT is going to be rocked. Clay grew up in Hawaii and suffers from Asperger’s Sydrome, a mild form of autism. More footage of Clay ripping can be seen on his movie, Just Add Water (trailer below).