Mar 10 2008
Top 5 Waves You’ll Never Surf (and for good reason)
Everyone’s got their must-surf wave list. It might include: Uluwatu, Malibu, Pavones, G-Land, Trestles, etc. Long, perfect waves, that barrel. There are a few of us out there, that are determined to push the limits a bit and try to grab a barrel at a spot like Pipeline, Deserts, or Lance’s. But I think we’re in the minority of surfers. Then there are the psycho chargers that don’t ever seem to be afraid and come up laughing after getting caught inside on a big set. Everyone knows a few. Here’s a list of some of the mutant waves in the world that some nutbags saw from a bluff or cliff or boat and thought… “hmmm. I bet I can score a few good ones there.” I’ve excluded big wave spots like Mavericks, Jaws, Dungeons, etc.
Cyclops
One word to describe this wave: mutant. This wave just inverts on itself. I doubt there’s really any sort of take off zone at all. The only video I could find was of a few bodyboarders charging it.
[youtube ahiZ9xFCjkI]
Alaska Glacier
Garrett McNamara and a few others decided that surfing 50 ft waves wasn’t enough, so they journeyed up to Alaska last year to tow in 15 ft. waves created by the surge of giant columns of ice break off a glacier. The water temperature is around 32 degrees and they have to sit close to enough on their jetski that they could be clipped by pieces of one of the falling columns. I wouldn’t describe the waves they rode as epic either.
[youtube mKRR9RMmcIQ]
Ours
Ours is a heaving barrel near Sydney that basically breaks onto an exposed rock ledge. Surfer’s describe it as heavier than Shipstern’s Bluff (next up in the list). If you ever do decided to paddle out there, on top of dodging giant death barrels, you’ll be fighting Koby Abberton and the Bra Boys for waves. I doubt they’ll be giving you any tips for where to sit in the line-up.
[youtube 7_kYhVl0jYs]
Backdoor
OK, so you might make it out to the North Shore in the winter and might just decide to charge Pipeline on a smaller day at high tide. And it’s not unreasonable to grab a few waves in those conditions. But as Pipeline A-frames on the reef, Pipe’s angry sister – Backdoor (wave going right off Pipeline) – rears up and spits some mighty barrels. Backdoor breaks onto a notoriously shallow volcanic ledge. Surfers describe wiping out and then standing in waist high water as a 10 ft barrel shuts down a few feet in front of them. For years after Pipeline was first surfed, surfers didn’t surf Backdoor because they thought it was too dangerous (not far from the truth). Oh yeah, when Backdoor’s going off, your chances of getting a wave to yourself are pretty much nil.
[youtube K0ahBCqLA1k]
Shipsterns Bluff
Tasmania, near the Southern most point of Australia, drive a few hours from the capital city – Hobart. Park, pack your wetsuit and board, then hike 4 hours until the tail ends at a huge bluff facing the roaring 40s. Don’t worry, it’s never flat down there. Shipsterns is considered one of the heaviest barrels in the world. Oh yeah, save your energy, you’ll need it for the 4 hour hike back out. The good new: no locals.
[youtube 7HOkYM7QaLc]