This HD slow-motion video of Jaws was shot by “iamkalaniprince” (Vimeo user) on December 7, 2009. This clip shows a seemingly endless set at the monster break. Jaws broke countless times this winter and Sebastian Steudtner, won the Billabong XXL was a massive left at Jaws (video link). This really shows how big tow-in big wave surfing has become. Every wave of the set has a rider on in, with I’m sure a few left after the set waiting for more.
Jaws (Maui) was macking on Monday with dozens of teams of tow-ins vying for position. One particularly unlucky surfer hit a few chops on the face that Jaws is notorious for and got worked in a devastating manner. Here’s the video:
Jaimal Yogis, NorCal local, award-winning writer, and part time Buddhist, writes simply and eloquently about his own discovery of surfing in a remarkable account that mixes surfing and snips of Buddhism. Saltwater Buddha resonates with every surfer with stories echoing surfing’s journey of discovery. As surfers, we all know that the sport is much more than the act of standing on a fiberglass boarding and gliding across waves; but it is a struggle to explain that without sounding like the media charicature of surfers. “Bro, it’s all about the wave…”
Jaimal’s spiritual search parallels his discovery of surfing in high school. He did what many of us wished we had, bought a one way ticket to Hawaii at the height of his youth and surfing exuberance. Surfing takes Jaimal through Hawaii, San Francisco, and New York. Jaimal writes simply yet powerfully about the sport and weaves stories of Buddhism. I finished the book in a night and look forward to reading more from Jaimal. Saltwater Buddhaputs Jaimal firmly in the class of other great writing by writers such as Duane Duarte (Caught Inside) and William Finnegan (Playing Doc’s Games). Even more Saltwater Buddha is a an excellent narative that transcends surfing.
I turned my board, pointed it toward the rocks and began pumping my hands through the water. The thing began to lift, kept lifting. Up, up, up. I was looking down the line of a horizontal tornado and my board picked up speed. I didn’t hesitate. My body somehow knew.
Then… speed. Unbelievable speed. Not walking on water. Running. Gliding. Flying. No separate self. No Jaimal riding. No wave about to crush me. No thought. Just the sound of thunder behind me. Just a blue wall transforming. Just–I saw the rocks coming.
More and more authors are having to utilize social channels to get their content out there and build their following. Tim Ferrriss is well known for his guerilla marketing style tactics of launching his books. The best authors are influencers (as in the case of Tim Ferriss) with build in loyal audiences on Instagram and other social channels. These authors use these social channels to keep in touch with their audiences between books so they have a build in audience of their core fans for their next book launch. Such authors will use all available social channels including Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, and YouTube. Twitch (live streaming app owned by Amazon) is even emerging as a channel as well. See twitch statistics here.
Clark Little (website), pictured above photographing the reknowned Waimea Shorebreak, started his career surfing the heaviest shorebreak in the world at Waimea. When he picked up photography, he naturally gravitated toward the impact zone and producing stunning images of the barrel from the shorebreak. Clark’s profile on Club of the Waves.
Clark puts himself in the critical point of the waves and gets rewarded with stunning images. His images are unlike any others. Taken from the heart of the barrel as the wave is balanced between motion and sculpture. Here are a few of his stunning images. (Daily Mail UK post on Clark Little) See Clark’s recent Interview on Good Morning America, Youtube Video of the interview at the end of the post.
Clark Little Putting Himself in the Line of Fire for the Shot
A View Only a Surfer Sees Clark Little Capturing the Wave Dance
The New York Times profiles Kala Alexander, Pipeline local and founder of the Wolfpack, as he explains why the Wolfpack got started and how it regulates and protects the Pipeline line-up. Kala cuts a larger than life figure as a pipeline local, community volunteer, actor, surfer, and businessman, but with a violent past. He spent time in prison for assault charges on Kauai. Regulating the line-up at Pipeline has meant physical intimidation and occasional violence to those who don’t follow the rules. Da Hui and the Wolfpack emphasize respect for the locals and order in the line-up; they enforce the code through violence and/or threats of violence. Kala was also profiled recently by Outside Magazine and has his own website. Unfortunately, there’s no blog on his site; it would be interesting to hear Kala’s thoughts and responses to readers. Youtube interview with Kala at the bottom.
From the NYT article:
“The code is to respect other people,” Alexander, 39, said. “People come over here and don’t respect other people. You’re going to run into problems if you do that.”
That is what happened to Chris Ward, a 30-year-old professional from San Clemente, Calif., and runner-up to Kelly Slater last month at the Pipeline Masters. In November, Australian publications reported that Ward cut off a local surfer while riding a wave at Pipeline. He was banished to the beach, where a Wolfpak member smacked him in the head. Without providing details, Ward confirmed that the incident happened.
“It was crowded when I came here,” Alexander said about Pipeline. “A lot of people in the water, not much respect. Where I grew up on Kauai, you respect everybody in the water, especially your elders. Don’t step out of line. We just brought that mentality over here.”
I’m not sure there’s anything that needs to said here. He blew away the field, winning 6 contests and 5 of the first 7 contests. It was never a contest, there was no race in points, it was just a matter of when he would close the deal, which he did in Mundaka, Spain. Unless the top 10 on the tour step up huge next year, there doesn’t look like anything is getting in the way of Kelly winning his 10th world title next year. Final ASP Rankings.
2) AI implodes on tour, takes 2009 off.
Photo: ASP/Cestari
Andy Irons put up a disappointing performance on WCT tour in 2008. He highest finish was 5th place. He failed to show up for his heat at the Quicksilver Pro France and skipped the Brazil contest leading to speculation about his troubles. Andy announced that he was taking 2009 off from the tour, and may be following the path of free surfer of his brother, Bruce Irons.While I respect any athletes decision to do what he pleases with his career, A.I. has shown to be the best competitor to Kelly Slater (no disrepect to Taj, Mick, Parko, Bede, and others in the top 10). When he’s on top form, he’s one of the most exciting surfers to watch on tour. So while a year free surfing the best barrels of the world will no doubt be the time of his life, he will be missed on the 2009 WCT tour and his absence removes one more hurdle to Kelly Slater clinching his 10th world title.
Kelly looked unstoppable all year and the Pipeline Masters was no exception. He beat Chris Ward in the final heat while riding a 5’11” in 8-10 ft Pipeline. Adding a final flourish to his epic year. Well done, Kelly. Looking forward to see what you can do next year.
The future of the big-wave Mavericks Surf Competition (Half Moon Bay, CA) was in doubt when previous sponsors pulled out this year (article SFGate). Jim Beam bourbon and benefactors Moose Guen and Jane Sutherland of the private equity firm MVision couldn’t pass on the opportunity to support the chance of the best big wave surfers in the world hucking themselves over 50 ft. ledges at the famed Northern California big wave surf spot. The total purse is $75,000 with $30,000 going to the winner. More at the official website Maverickssurf.com, including the list of invitees.
Flickr is a great photo sharing site with incredible amateur and pro photos. Surf photography has been a burgeoning category on Flickr with some incredible photography. Check out the surf photography groups on Flickr for more: Surfing Group, “Surf Photography” Group, “Wave Porn” Group, and the “Surfer” Group. Check out some of my favorite photos and photographers below:
